First trip of 2023! Join me as I head inland from Koitiata Beach through the hills and up to Pokaka Mill before heading out to the gem - Tukino.
A soft, scenic beach run along the coast that lets you skip SH3 between Bulls and Wanganui. The route tracks the open sand from Bulls up to Turakina, passing the lagoon at Koitiata and exiting near Scott's Ferry. Locals love it, plenty drive it heading out fishing.
This was one of the harder beach runs I've done, so it's best not tackled alone unless you're used to driving on sand. The sand can be very soft in places, especially around the Scott's Ferry exit, so drop your tyre pressures (around 18PSI works) and stay closer to the sea where it's firmer.
Time your trip for low tide. At high tide you'll be trapped by a salt-water creek crossing and some sections become impassable. Check the creeks before crossing, as they can turn to quicksand and wobble like jelly, and follow existing tracks where you can. Finding the way past the lagoon and picking up the exit can be tricky, so keep the Navigator app running.
Running from the coast at Turakina through to Tangiwai near Ohakune, this seal-and-gravel back road follows the Turakina River the whole way. It's a longer but more interesting alternative to SH4, winding through farmland with a couple of waterfalls and a notable bridge along the way.
An easy, well-rated drive of roughly 100km, a mix of around 60/40 gravel and chip seal that's comfortably doable in a regular car. Allow about 2 to 3 hours. Some of the gravel sections are thinly metalled, so they can be loose underfoot, and you may meet stock on the road or the odd small slip or downed tree, though nothing that blocks the way through.
Most drivers reckon south to north is the way to do it, since you'll be facing National Park and Mt Ruapehu for much of the journey. On a clear day the views are well worth it, and plenty of people rate it over the direct highway. Good one for an unhurried scenic run through the back blocks.
Tucked away in the Tongariro Forest Conservation Area in the Manawatu-Whanganui region, Pokaka Mill is a super basic campsite that delivers a proper off-grid experience. The recommended access is John McDonald Rd from SH47 - a rough gravel road that's manageable in a stock 2WD with a little ground clearance, and the drive in takes around 25 minutes.
The road opens out into a large clearing with heaps of room and plenty of private spots to choose from, including a great spot down from the main camp. There are caves nearby worth exploring too. Facilities are simply a long-drop toilet and nothing else.
On calm days the bird song is fantastic, and on clear nights the stars are incredibly bright. It's a quiet, peaceful place that rarely gets crowded - many regulars rate it among the best campsites in the North Island. Just note it's exposed and remote, so come prepared with warm gear even in summer, and especially in winter. Avoid the Pukehinau Rd route via Hillary OPC, which is badly overgrown - stick to John McDonald Rd.
A short track near Pokaka Mill, handy to tack onto your way in or out of the campsite. It runs through native bush on rough but generally dry gravel, with a few decent ruts to pick your way through. No major water crossings, though you might splash through a puddle or two.
Driven from the campsite end, it's an easy enough run as far as where the walk starts. Past that point the track narrows and gets heavily overgrown with scratchy bushes that'll mark your paintwork, and there's nowhere easy to turn around once you're into the thick of it.
Take it carefully if you push on past the walk. A quiet, scenic little detour while you're exploring the Pokaka area.
Driving up the side of an active volcano is something pretty special. The Tukino Access Road climbs the eastern flank of Mt Ruapehu in Tongariro National Park, near Waiouru, and the higher you get the more it feels like Mars. The rocky, barren landscape is otherworldly, and on a clear day the views are hard to beat. Good year round: head up in summer for the scenery, or in winter for some epic and far more challenging snow driving.
The route is rocky, rough and corrugated in places, with a couple of small stream crossings. It's not technical, and most 4WDs manage easily, often 2WDs in good weather. Beyond the 2WD carpark it climbs steeply and gets very exposed to strong wind and fast-changing weather. Sharp rocks can cut tyres, so take it easy. Some drivers drop to around 20-25 psi to smooth the ride. Leaving the track risks an $800 DOC fine, and it's a dog-free zone.
There-and-back day trip, roughly an hour to the top and back, with no camping on the mountain but plenty of sites nearby. A gate about three-quarters of the way up is locked when the ski field's closed. A free key (donation appreciated) comes from the Waiouru Army Museum or the Taupo, Turangi and Ohakune visitor centres, worth ringing ahead. Without it you still drive most of the way and only miss the steep final section.
Raumai Reserve is a tucked-away riverside campsite on the Pohangina River in the Manawatu-Whanganui region. It sits just off the Manawatu Scenic Route, not too far from Takapari Road or North Range Road, making it a handy base if you're exploring the surrounding ranges and back roads.
It's a well-liked little spot, especially good in summer when the river makes for a relaxing place to park up. Head down onto the river itself to find the best of it - the campervan camping area up top is a little average by comparison, so it pays to make your way down for the better setting.
Facilities are basic, with toilets on site. Sandflies can be about, so bring some bug spray to make your stay more comfortable.