First trip of 2023! Join me as I head inland from Koitiata Beach through the hills and up to Pokaka Mill before heading out to the gem - Tukino.
A soft, scenic beach run on the Manawatu-Whanganui coast that lets you skip SH3 on the way to Wanganui. The route tracks the open sand between Bulls and Turakina, passing the lagoon at Koitiata and exiting near Scott's Ferry. It's a popular drive with locals, but it was one of the harder beach runs we've done, so it's best not tackled alone unless you're used to driving on sand. Time your trip for low tide: at high tide you'll be trapped by a salt-water creek crossing, and some sections become impassable. The sand can be very soft in places, so drop your tyre pressures (around 18PSI works) and stay closer to the sea where the sand is firmer.
A scenic seal-and-gravel back road in the Manawatu-Whanganui region, running from the coast at Turakina right through to Tangiwai near Ohakune. The road follows the Turakina River the entire way, making for a longer but more interesting alternative to SH4. It's an easy, well-rated drive of roughly 100km, a mix of around 60/40 gravel and chip seal that's comfortably doable in a regular car. Allow about 2 to 3 hours. The route winds through farmland with plenty to see, passing a couple of waterfalls along the way. Many drivers recommend travelling south to north, as you'll be facing National Park and Mt Ruapehu for much of the journey. Some gravel sections are thinly metalled, so they can be loose underfoot. Keep an eye out for stock on the road and the occasional small slip or downed tree. On a clear day the views are spectacular, and it's a rewarding trip well worth taking over the more direct highway.
Tucked away in the Tongariro Forest Conservation Area in the Manawatu-Whanganui region, Pokaka Mill is a super basic campsite that delivers a proper off-grid experience. The recommended access is John McDonald Rd from SH47 - a rough gravel road that's manageable in a stock 2WD with a little ground clearance, and the drive in takes around 25 minutes. The road opens out into a large clearing with heaps of room and plenty of private spots to choose from, including a great spot down from the main camp. There are caves nearby worth exploring too. Facilities are simply a long-drop toilet and nothing else. On calm days the bird song is fantastic, and on clear nights the stars are incredibly bright. It's a quiet, peaceful place that rarely gets crowded. Just note it's exposed and remote, so come prepared with warm gear even in the middle of summer - and especially in winter.
Pukehinau Road is a short forest track near Pokaka Mill in the Manawatu-Whanganui region, making a handy drive on your way in or out of the campsite. The route runs through native bush, with rough but generally dry gravel underfoot and a few decent ruts to pick your way through. There are no major water crossings, though you may find a puddle or two. Driven from the campsite end, it's straightforward as far as where the walk starts; beyond that point the track narrows and becomes heavily overgrown with scratchy bushes that can mark your paintwork, and there's no easy place to turn around once you're into the thick of it. Proceed with caution past the walk if you choose to continue. A quiet, scenic little detour for those exploring the Pokaka area.
Driving up the side of an active volcano is something pretty special. The Tukino Access Road climbs the eastern flank of Mt Ruapehu in Tongariro National Park, near Waiouru in the central North Island, and rewards you with stunning, otherworldly views — the rocky, barren landscape has more than one driver feeling like they're on Mars. It's an amazing drive year round: head up in summer for the unique scenery, or in winter for some epic (and far more challenging) snow driving.
The route is rocky, rough and corrugated in places, with a couple of small stream crossings. Beyond the 2WD carpark it climbs steeply and gets very exposed to strong wind and rapidly changing weather. It's not technical and most 4WDs (often 2WDs in good conditions) manage easily, but sharp rocks can cut tyres, so take it easy. Leaving the track risks an $800 DOC fine, and it's a dog-free zone.
The gate roughly three-quarters of the way up is locked when the ski field is closed; a free key (donation appreciated) is available from the Waiouru Army Museum or the Taupo, Turangi and Ohakune visitor centres. Without it you can still drive most of the way and miss only the steep final section.
Raumai Reserve is a tucked-away riverside campsite on the Pohangina River in the Manawatu-Whanganui region, just off the Manawatu Scenic Route and not too far from Takapari Road or North Range Road. It's a well-liked little spot, especially good in summer when the river makes for a relaxing place to park up. Head down onto the river itself to find the best of it - the campervan camping area up top is a little average by comparison, so it pays to make your way down for the better setting. Facilities are basic, with toilets on site. Sandflies can be about, so bring some bug spray to make your stay more comfortable. A handy, scenic base if you're exploring the surrounding ranges and back roads.