Driving up the side of an active volcano is something pretty special. The Tukino Access Road climbs the eastern flank of Mt Ruapehu in Tongariro National Park, near Waiouru, and the higher you get the more it feels like Mars. The rocky, barren landscape is otherworldly, and on a clear day the views are hard to beat. Good year round: head up in summer for the scenery, or in winter for some epic and far more challenging snow driving.

The route is rocky, rough and corrugated in places, with a couple of small stream crossings. It's not technical, and most 4WDs manage easily, often 2WDs in good weather. Beyond the 2WD carpark it climbs steeply and gets very exposed to strong wind and fast-changing weather. Sharp rocks can cut tyres, so take it easy. Some drivers drop to around 20-25 psi to smooth the ride. Leaving the track risks an $800 DOC fine, and it's a dog-free zone.

There-and-back day trip, roughly an hour to the top and back, with no camping on the mountain but plenty of sites nearby. A gate about three-quarters of the way up is locked when the ski field's closed. A free key (donation appreciated) comes from the Waiouru Army Museum or the Taupo, Turangi and Ohakune visitor centres, worth ringing ahead. Without it you still drive most of the way and only miss the steep final section.