A large clearing deep in the Tongariro Forest gives you a proper off-grid camp with heaps of room and plenty of private spots to spread out. There's a good one down from the main camp, and some caves nearby worth a poke around if you've got decent gear.

Getting in, the recommended route is John McDonald Rd off SH47. It's rough gravel but fine in a stock 2WD with a bit of clearance, and takes around 25 minutes. Give the Pukehinau Rd route via Hillary OPC a miss, it's badly overgrown. Facilities are just a long-drop toilet, nothing else, so come self-sufficient.

On calm days the bird song is fantastic and clear nights bring incredibly bright stars. It stays quiet and rarely gets crowded, and plenty of regulars rate Pokaka Mill among the best campsites in the North Island. It's exposed and remote though, so pack warm gear even in summer, and definitely in winter.