Join me on a 4WD overlanding trip along New Zealand’s rugged West Coast.
In this adventure, I take my Land Rover Discovery down to meet up with two Aussie Land Rover Perenties visiting from across the ditch. We explore the historic Denniston Plateau, tackle Napoleon Hill, and I squeeze in a bit of solo exploring along the way too.
Tucked into Victoria Forest Park near the historic township of Reefton on the West Coast, Slab Hut Creek Campsite makes a great base for exploring the area's many walks. The setting is a sheltered, grassy riverside flat with good cover from the wind, so it's a comfortable spot to pitch a tent.
Facilities include flush toilets, a BBQ, and water available from the stream. There's plenty to keep you busy: try your luck at gold fossicking in the creek, a nod to the region's mining heritage, or get out on a mountain bike along the road.
The grassy site right by the river is the prize position, so it pays to arrive early to claim it. As with much of the West Coast, sandflies can be a real nuisance here, so come prepared with repellent. A consistently popular, easygoing campsite that's hard to beat for a quiet riverside stay.
A short gravel road runs into the Slab Hut Creek campsite through thick West Coast bush, with the creek for company along the way. It's an easy run that most vehicles will handle, no real driving challenge to get in.
The one thing worth a look is the small ford sitting alongside the bridge, so keep an eye out for it as you head in, if you want to use it - there is a bridge otherwise. Otherwise it's a gentle approach rather than anything technical.
Good option if you're after a quiet base without having to work for it. The campsite at the end makes a decent spot to pitch up for the night.
Thick native rainforest closes in over this gravel road as it follows Moonlight Creek through some classic West Coast bush. Quiet, green, and easy on the eye, it's worth the run out if backcountry roads are your thing.
Nothing technical here, just an easy scenic gravel route.
The road runs out at the start of walking tracks that carry on into the forest on foot. Good spot to pull over, stretch the legs, and have a wander further in than the vehicle can take you.
A short gravel run down through bush to a tidy hut beside the Ahaura River.
Classic West Coast bush and river country here, peaceful and pretty. There's a cableway at the hut that's been used for crossing the Ahaura, which adds to the appeal of the destination.
Stick to the marked route and go easy on the access and the grass around the hut, so it stays in good nick for everyone who follows.
This basic four-bunk hut makes a quiet, off-the-grid spot to settle in for the night. It's tucked away next to the Ahaura River. Simple kitchen space to cook food and room for tents outside.
Carved through the hills for gold mining many moons ago, this track near Ahaura runs through historic tunnels with rivers running through them, and the scenery gets compared to Jurassic Park more often than not. You drop out of native bush down a steep descent into narrow gorges, creek beds and river beds, with waterfalls coming alive when it rains.
Expect a real mix of terrain. Low-range descents, rocky and flexi sections, hidden rocks lurking in puddles, and several river crossings near one end where the track follows the river up. Plenty of optional side tracks and mud holes if you want a harder go. People have done it in everything from stock utes to lifted rigs, so it suits a wide range, though careful driving pays off and going through after heavy rain isn't on.
Landowner permission is required, so call Robyn and Malcolm first. They're friendly, give you a map and a rundown of what to expect, and there's a $20 charge per vehicle. They prefer a two-vehicle minimum for safety, so it's best done as a group.
The farm has a 4WD-accessible camping area with great views, a long drop and a campfire spot for $10 per person a night.
Climbing through hills with an almost Tasmanian feel, this West Coast route links the historic coal mining town of Denniston with New Creek near Lyell. Worth taking time to explore Denniston's mining history before you head off. Keep an eye out for weka along the way.
The Denniston side is something of a 4WD playground, with steep rocky climbs and descents, deep potholes, and plenty of offshoots and pylon maintenance tracks to play on, including some fun rock steps. The New Creek side is more straightforward, and many find the going easier coming from Denniston. Low range saves your brakes on the steep bits, and good rough-terrain tyres and underbody protection are worth having. Watch your speed on those potholes, a few people have dented underbodies hitting them too fast.
The main obstacle is the Mackley River crossing, where depth runs from quarter-door to bonnet height depending on flow and season. A snorkel is recommended after rain. Hidden boulders and deep holes make it well worth scouting on foot to pick your line. Best not tackled solo, and cell service is very limited. A couple of small camp spots sit along the track. Plan for around two to three hours end to end.
High above Westport, the Denniston Plateau is windswept, exposed and a bit eerie, with the old coal-mining country all around. This alternative route takes a different line across the tops, giving you views you don't get on the main track.
Keep an eye out for coal seams showing in the cuttings, a reminder of what this place was built on. When the weather clears the outlooks stretch right across the surrounding country, but up on the exposed tops it can feel pretty remote and the wind doesn't let up.
Good option if you've done the main route and want to see more of the plateau.
A short climb up the side of a rocky outcrop to a trig point, with open views over the surrounding plateau once you're up top. For such a brief outing the payoff is decent, plenty of country to take in.
Don't let the length fool you. There are a couple of tricky little climbs packed in that give it a more technical feel than the distance suggests, so take it with a bit of care. Most who drive it reckon it's a hard little track.
The trig makes a natural turnaround and a good spot to pull over and look out over the plateau. Good quick option if you like a sharp technical climb with a view at the end.
The climb runs up onto the Denniston Plateau, topping out around 1040m with sweeping views out over the West Coast. It's a popular, well-loved drive, generally rated easy to medium, and the payoff at the top is the main draw. Plenty of side tracks to poke around on the way up.
It's a rugged, rocky climb with some ruts, big rocks and steeper sections, so it can be punishing on the suspension. Decent ground clearance helps, especially for the final push up to the cliff and lookout. Wet weather would make it tougher, so a clear day is the one to aim for.
The plateau has been mined heavily over the years, and you'll often pass active mining operations. Stick to the formed track at all times, both for safety and to keep the area in good nick. Well worth the effort for the views from the top.
Climb up onto the plateau here and you're treated to some of the most photographed views on the West Coast, especially when the fog rolls out and the country opens up below you. It's a popular, highly-rated run, and there are plenty of other tracks to explore around the same area if you've got the time.
Mostly a gravel track that finishes with rock steps up to the lookout itself. Generally rated easy, though the surface is bumpy and loose, with soft gravel climbs that can test your traction. Most stock utes handle it fine, but long-wheelbase rigs or anything with a poor rear approach angle may struggle to reach the best photo spot right at the top.
Keep your speed down on the way up. The cliff edge at the lookout is unguarded and you can't see it as you approach, which adds to the fun but is a real risk.
Best not to drive or stand close to the edge, and if you do, it's at your own risk.
Camp amongst the kānuka forest just off SH7 between Hanmer Springs and Lewis Pass. Boyle Campsite is on the Te Araroa Trail and at the end of the five-day tramp on the St James Walkway.