In this two part series we explore the South Island in winter - challenged by the weather, things don't quite go to plan - but that's part of the fun!
Part two takes us up to the old Big River gold mine before heading across Lewis Pass and out towards Lake Tennyson for a freezing night.
Big River is one of the West Coast's most intact goldmining areas, with a remarkable array of relics to explore.
The long, winding route twists through beautiful regenerating beech forest, passing many mining sites before opening out to the barren Big River settlement. Expect a mix of gravel road and rougher, rocky and rutted sections that feel like driving a riverbed in places, plus stream crossings that rise and flood in heavy rain. It is for experienced four wheel drivers, and the route is narrow with few passing spots, so be prepared to back up for oncoming traffic. Allow around two hours one way. There's no through exit, so drive out the same way.
Enjoy lunch or an overnight stay at the DOC Big River Hut (book online), and take time to soak up the rich history. The road also makes a good walking and mountain biking track.
Please respect the historic site.
Rainbow Road is one of New Zealand's most iconic off-road routes, a scenic gravel run through rugged South Island backcountry linking the St Arnaud/Nelson Lakes area with the Hanmer Springs side. Originally built to service the region's transmission lines, it crosses Rainbow Station's private land between steeper, river-hugging valleys at the northern end and the more open country near Lake Tennyson and the Molesworth boundary.
Expect a well-graded but long gravel road with optional river and stream fords (bridges are available as an alternative), plus potholes on the southern section and rocky, loose going at the northern end where airing down helps. The scenery is the highlight: alpine peaks, native bush, and picturesque valleys, with peaceful spots to stop, fish or picnic.
Access costs $60 per vehicle, paid in cash at the homestead near the northern end, where they often also sell local honey. Gates open daily 7:00am to 6:00pm.
There are no fuel or services along the way, so carry water, food and recovery gear. Stay on track, leave gates as found, take rubbish out, and check the Rainbow Station website before you go.
Jacks Pass Road is an easier climb up into the St James Conservation Area, starting from Hanmer Springs in Canterbury. A generally well graded gravel road, it's open year round and offers a straightforward, enjoyable drive up into the hills. Though steep in places, the surface is rarely more than a little bumpy, making it accessible for most 4WD travellers. From the pass the road links through to the Rainbow Road and on to the Molesworth Station route, so it works well as a scenic gateway to bigger backcountry adventures in the area. The climb rewards you with views across the hill country surrounding Hanmer Springs. A nice, accessible run whether you're using it as a quick outing or the first leg of a longer journey deeper into the high country.
Tucked away in the high country of the Molesworth Recreation Reserve in Marlborough, this isolated campsite sits beside the stunning Lake Tennyson. It's a spacious, tidy lakeside spot that rates highly with visitors, offering trout fishing, kayaking, boating and walking opportunities, plus crisp alpine views that can include winter snow. Facilities are basic but adequate: non-powered tent sites, two long-drop toilets, and water available from the stream. The site is wheelchair accessible with assistance. Be aware that it is very exposed, with few sheltered spots, so check the forecast and pack warm gear before heading in. Adventurous campers sometimes cross the lake exit river on a 4WD track to reach a quieter spot on the far side of the lake do a foot recce first, as it suits a snorkelled or lifted vehicle. A peaceful, scenic base that rewards good weather.
Jollies Pass is the more interesting of the two routes up into the St James Conservation area in Canterbury, linking the Molesworth and Rainbow country with Hanmer Springs. Short but scenic, it climbs high through the hills, and as you crest the mountain there's a spectacular lookout over Hanmer Springs and the valley to the south. The route is a narrow gravel road with a small creek crossing, deep rain ruts, potholes and a raw, rocky surface in places. Sections are tightly lined with gorse and broom that can scratch wider vehicles, and there's little room to pass oncoming traffic. The steep descents include some washed-out sections, so a bit of ground clearance and care pays off. Many find it tame in the dry, but it's more of an adventure when wet. It makes a great alternative to Jacks Pass and a fine way to round out a Molesworth or Rainbow loop. The gate at the Hanmer side can be closed over winter due to weather, so check before committing, as it's a long way back.