In this two part series we explore the South Island in winter - challenged by the weather, things don't quite go to plan - but that's part of the fun!
Part two takes us up to the old Big River gold mine before heading across Lewis Pass and out towards Lake Tennyson for a freezing night.
One of the West Coast's most intact goldmining areas, with a remarkable array of relics scattered through the bush. Access is via Soldiers Road, and the long, winding route twists through lovely regenerating beech forest, passing plenty of mining sites before opening out to the barren Big River settlement.
Expect a mix of gravel road and rougher, rocky and rutted sections that feel like driving a riverbed in places. There's the odd cross-axle spot and a real risk of tyre damage on the sharp stuff. Stream crossings rise in heavy rain, and a long-standing mud bog about halfway will pull you off to the left, so hug the right going in. It's not overly hard and most stock 4WDs will manage, but it's slow, narrow with few passing spots, so be ready to back up for oncoming traffic. Allow around two hours one way. No through exit, so you drive out the same way.
The DOC Big River Hut up top is worth booking for an overnight, and take the time to soak up the history. It's a good walking and mountain biking track too. Please respect the historic site.
A long gravel run through rugged backcountry, linking the St Arnaud and Nelson Lakes area with the Hanmer Springs side. Originally built to service the transmission lines, it crosses Rainbow Station's private land before reaching the Molesworth boundary. The northern end is steeper, with the road hugging river valleys, while it opens out near Lake Tennyson and the southern stretch.
Mostly well-graded gravel with optional river and stream fords, and bridges if you'd rather keep dry. Expect potholes on the southern section and rocky, loose going up north, where airing down helps. Crossings can rise after heavy rain. Most vehicles cope fine, and folks have done the lot in 2WD on a good day. The scenery is the drawcard: alpine peaks, native bush and quiet valleys with spots to fish or pull over for lunch. The camping near Lake Tennyson is well worth it.
Access is $60 per vehicle, paid in cash at the homestead near the northern end, where they often sell local honey too, so carry extra. Gates open 7am to 6pm. No fuel or services along the way, so bring water, food and insect repellent for the sandflies at the camps. Leave gates as found and take your rubbish out.
A steady gravel climb out of Hanmer Springs that takes you up into the St James Conservation Area. It's well graded most of the way, open year round, and an easy enough run for most 4WD travellers. Steep in places, but the surface is rarely more than a little bumpy.
From the pass the road links through to the Rainbow Road and on to the Molesworth Station route, so Jacks Pass works nicely either as a quick outing or the first leg of something longer into the high country. The views across the surrounding hill country are worth the climb.
Worth noting the descents are steep, so drop into a lower gear to hold your speed rather than riding the brakes the whole way down. In the cooler months you can strike snow on the upper half.
Tucked away in the high country of the Molesworth Recreation Reserve in Marlborough, this isolated campsite sits beside the stunning Lake Tennyson. It's a spacious, tidy lakeside spot that rates highly with visitors, offering trout fishing, kayaking, boating and walking opportunities, plus crisp alpine views that can include winter snow.
Facilities are basic but adequate: non-powered tent sites, two long-drop toilets, and water available from the stream. The site is wheelchair accessible with assistance. Be aware that it is very exposed, with few sheltered spots, so check the forecast and pack warm gear before heading in. The wind can pick up quickly, and in summer expect flies and mozzies around the lake edge.
Adventurous campers sometimes cross the lake exit river on a 4WD track to reach a quieter spot on the far side of the lake. Do a foot recce first, as it suits a snorkelled or lifted vehicle. A peaceful, scenic base that rewards good weather.
The more interesting of the two routes up into the St James Conservation area, this one links the Molesworth and Rainbow country with Hanmer Springs. Short but scenic, it climbs high through the hills, and as you crest the top there's a great lookout over Hanmer Springs and the valley to the south.
It's a narrow gravel road with a small creek crossing, deep rain ruts, potholes and a raw, rocky surface in places. Sections are tightly lined with gorse and broom that can scratch wider vehicles, and there's little room to pass if something comes the other way. The steep descents have some washed-out bits, so a bit of ground clearance and care goes a long way. Watch for cyclists on the climb and descent.
Many find it tame in the dry, when capable vehicles have driven it both ways, but it's more of an adventure when wet. A good alternative to Jacks Pass and a fine way to round out a Molesworth or Rainbow loop. The Hanmer end is signed as unmaintained, and the gate there can be closed over winter, so check before committing, as it's a long way back.