Down at the southern tip of the Pouto Peninsula, near the mouth of the Kaipara Harbour, the old lighthouse is the reward at the end of a proper beach-and-dune run. You get there along the long sweep of Ripiro Beach with rolling dunes that seem to go on forever, and there's plenty of room to pitch up for a night or two. Keep an eye out for wildlife along the way.

The lighthouse at North Head dates back to 1884, was automated in 1947 and closed in the mid 1950s, and the structure still stands after a renovation in 1982-84. Some folks spend days roaming the dunes and the walking tracks near the lighthouse.

The sand is very soft the whole way, with quicksand patches and sudden drop-offs that pop up without warning, so 4WD is essential. Air down to around 12psi, keep your momentum and carry recovery gear. Cell service is poor, so don't tackle it solo if you're new to sand. Watch the tides closely, it's easy to get caught out. An inland bush exit route has deep water crossings and a locked farm gate that needs the farmer's permission. Respect the wildlife, and please take your rubbish home.